B-29 model

Hi Steve -

Are talking about the Monogram B-29 model? If so, I have nto though have a few friends who have and speak well of the model.

Enjoy the Day! Mark
 
Fun, but not a major undertaking. I built it gear up with clear discs for the props to hang in the lobby of my airport building years ago.

XB-70 Guy said:
frank said:
I've built the Monogram kit.

XB-70 Guy said:
Has anyone built a 1:48 scale model of the B-29?
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That must have been a major undertaking and lots of fun!
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Hi

Have you discovered these modellers links on Hyperscale?
http://www.hyperscale.com/features/2000/b29de_1.htm
and
http://hsfeatures.com/features04/b29aac_1.htm

or the 3d CGI models at Perspectx:
http://www.perspectx.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=0218
and at Mesh factory:
http://www.meshfactory.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=581
http://www.meshfactory.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=569
the Mesh factory VIP subscription lets you download any or all their models for about $US 249

Regards
 
Hell gents you make me envious with these models!

I would love to have something like a 1:48 B-29 hanging from my sons ceiling
But my wife doesn't even trust me with glue and scissors - but is happy for me to defuse bombs and mines - Figure that one out! ::)

Regards
Pioneer
 
I've built the 1/48 Monogram kit too. Nice kit though not up to scratch with current day quality. It's fun to build as long as you take care when building the main assembly. I didn't pay any special attention when making mine and after many years it's holding together... just. My 1/72 B-36 split in half though and the wings came off as well. Both models are heavy kits and just about support their own weight, so definitely consider building some strengthening inside if you want it to last. Also take extra care with the glass canopy sections as it doesn't fit too well in places and it's difficult to smoothen that with putty due to the transparencies. Other than that it's an enjoyable kit that looks pretty impressive when finished.
 
Maybe you shoulda used a better/stronger/more cement. I built my first B-36 back in '80 & it's still holding fast, after even being hung from the ceiling a few times as well.


Skyraider3D said:
I've built the 1/48 Monogram kit too. Nice kit though not up to scratch with current day quality. It's fun to build as long as you take care when building the main assembly. I didn't pay any special attention when making mine and after many years it's holding together... just. My 1/72 B-36 split in half though and the wings came off as well. Both models are heavy kits and just about support their own weight, so definitely consider building some strengthening inside if you want it to last. Also take extra care with the glass canopy sections as it doesn't fit too well in places and it's difficult to smoothen that with putty due to the transparencies. Other than that it's an enjoyable kit that looks pretty impressive when finished.
Click to expand...
 
frank said:
Maybe you shoulda used a better/stronger/more cement. I built my first B-36 back in '80 & it's still holding fast, after even being hung from the ceiling a few times as well.
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Quite possibly! I think I used the Revell glue in a jar with a brush. It sort-of melts the plastic together but appears to get brittle after some years.
 
Skyraider3D said:
frank said:
Maybe you shoulda used a better/stronger/more cement. I built my first B-36 back in '80 & it's still holding fast, after even being hung from the ceiling a few times as well.
Click to expand...
Quite possibly! I think I used the Revell glue in a jar with a brush. It sort-of melts the plastic together but appears to get brittle after some years.
Click to expand...

Yes, the glue does become brittle with age and so does the plastic.

One of the secrets to working with plastic model glue is to apply pressure when joining parts. (Except for the small detail parts which would break.) The glue melts the plastic but without the pressure what you get when it dries is re-hardened plastic - dried glue - re-hardened plastic. Applying then holding pressure on the parts while the glue dries causes the melted plastic on the two parts to combine creating a join similar to a weld in metal.
 
The Artist said:
One of the secrets to working with plastic model glue is to apply pressure when joining parts.
Click to expand...
You're absolutely right, and that's possibly where the problem lies with such a large model... it's almost impossible to apply pressure succesfully down the entire seam. It's just too big.


As a sidenote to the B-29 (and B-36) construction: don't forget to add lead to the front to keep the nose down.
 
Skyraider3D said:
The Artist said:
One of the secrets to working with plastic model glue is to apply pressure when joining parts.
Click to expand...
You're absolutely right, and that's possibly where the problem lies with such a large model... it's almost impossible to apply pressure succesfully down the entire seam. It's just too big.


As a sidenote to the B-29 (and B-36) construction: don't forget to add lead to the front to keep the nose down.
Click to expand...

Hose clamps could be used on round fuselages, but using them is tricky. Don't use the clamp in direct contact with the parts. Use wide strips cut from sheet plastic between the parts and two or three clamps. These strips help distribute the pressure - especially where the metal strap lifts to enter the slot. (The parts will distort if you don't have a strip under this area.) As I said, using them is tricky. It's easy to apply too much pressure and distort or even break the parts. Note: These clamps would not work on not-round parts like the B-52 fuselage parts.

Thinking about it, those reusable tie-straps could also be used but I'd still suggest placing the plastic strips between the straps and the parts.

A good reminder about the nose weights - unless, like me, you build the aircraft gear up and place them on a support rod.

Edit - I realized that I should add this little caution. When setting the plastic strips under the clamps, be sure the strips are not in contact with the glued seams. Otherwise, you'll probably end up with the strip glued to the parts.
 
2 words. Masking tape.

The Artist said:
Skyraider3D said:
The Artist said:
One of the secrets to working with plastic model glue is to apply pressure when joining parts.
Click to expand...
You're absolutely right, and that's possibly where the problem lies with such a large model... it's almost impossible to apply pressure succesfully down the entire seam. It's just too big.


As a sidenote to the B-29 (and B-36) construction: don't forget to add lead to the front to keep the nose down.
Click to expand...

Hose clamps could be used on round fuselages, but using them is tricky. Don't use the clamp in direct contact with the parts. Use wide strips cut from sheet plastic between the parts and two or three clamps. These strips help distribute the pressure - especially where the metal strap lifts to enter the slot. (The parts will distort if you don't have a strip under this area.) As I said, using them is tricky. It's easy to apply too much pressure and distort or even break the parts. Note: These clamps would not work on not-round parts like the B-52 fuselage parts.

Thinking about it, those reusable tie-straps could also be used but I'd still suggest placing the plastic strips between the straps and the parts.

A good reminder about the nose weights - unless, like me, you build the aircraft gear up and place them on a support rod.

Edit - I realized that I should add this little caution. When setting the plastic strips under the clamps, be sure the strips are not in contact with the glued seams. Otherwise, you'll probably end up with the strip glued to the parts.
Click to expand...
 

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